Ferme de Jouvence
added four new French cheeses to our pre-order selection from Ferme de
Jouvence. Located in the commune of Rambouillet, about 28 miles Southwest
of Paris, Ferme de Jouvence is a bit of a rarity. Most small farmstead
French cheese makers choose not to export their products, either because they
can sell everything locally or they do not want to deal with the onerous
requirements that come with selling relatively small amounts of cheese
abroad. With everything from milking to cheese making to aging done right
on their farm, it’s not common to have access to such small batch and high
quality traditional French cheeses here in the states.
Jouvence, whose name translates roughly to “Farm of Rejuvenation,” is reviving
tradition even as it works to replenish the land’s natural resources. The farm
is a certified sustainable operation, and a prime example of how what’s good
for the planet is also good for the palate. Their small herd of Holstein cows
and Chamois goats are fed largely on grain and feed crops raised on the farm,
giving the resulting cheese a distinct expression of terroir. Milk is used
within 12 hours of milking to capture all its freshness and flavor.
chagrin of many cheese purists, France’s fabled unpasteurized artisan bries are
out of reach to the American consumer due to the FDA’s 60-day age requirement
for raw cheese. Ferme de Jouvence gives us the next best thing: their Brie
Fermier is one of only a few true farmstead bries exported to the United
antithesis of mass-produced, neutered bries, Brie Fermier is assertive, complex
and unforgettable. Our staff praised its buttery texture, oozy at the rind with
a firmer center that softens and runs as it reaches peak ripeness. The sweet
cream and button mushroom flavors characteristic of a well-made brie are
deepened by a distinct vegetal note, with hints of asparagus, broccoli and
tomato. The thin but toothy rind adds a slight bitter edge.
smaller-format Camembert Fermier echoes the mushroom and butter flavors of the
Brie Fermier but with the vegetal notes toned down. Its aroma is mustier, with
a suggestion of herbs. The texture is more uniform, on the springy side but
Not to be
outdone, the farm’s goats provide top-quality milk for the surprisingly clean
tasting Chevre Brie. It has a nice tang up front and a smooth buttery finish,
without any aggressive goatiness. The paste is uniform, soft but not runny,
beneath a delicate bloomy rind.
Persille de Chevre
ash-rinded Persille de Chevre rounds out the bunch, a rich and hearty goat
blue. The goat flavor is more pronounced here, with more aggressive salt and a
nice peppery finish.
find Brie Fermier, Camembert Fermier, Chevre Brie, and Persille de Chevre on
the French Boat page of our pre-order workbook.